Bark Tanning Fish Skins

Here are pretty good instructions on bark tanning salmon skins by Xavier de la Foret.

He doesn’t really mention a great way to get the membrane off (don’t use a butter knife). My preferred way is using a pumice stone. You could also break a large sedimentary round river stone in half and use that to rough up the membrane. Getting the membrane off is a key to bark tanning as the tannins and fats won’t penetrate very well. You can get more and more membrane off as you tan (you need to pull the skins out occasionally and work them a bit anyway), so if it doesn’t come of right away that’s OK.

Boreal tannic plants are spruce, willow, alder, and probably a bunch more that I don’t know. Almost any herbal plant that is known for astringency (used for bladder infections) may potentially be a high tannic plant. Like cranberries.

Not sure if this was the purpose, but I remember reading somewhere that fermented/aged human urine can used for part of the process. Something about the uric acid and ammonia. It would get soaked in that cocktail, rinsed, then basically freeze dried by hanging in the wind in the winter.

Freeze drying, or just putting hides in a freezer, is a really helpful way to get hides soft. Really seems to open up the hide. Ageing freeze dried hides (or just dried hides) supposedly makes really soft hides as well. I wonder if the bacteria on everything find the hides and slowly break down the gunk in the hides (aka ground substance) with enzymes (proteolytic enzymes) that people usually use basic soaks (lye and/or lime) and bating (pigeon shit and urine). I have one freeze dried hide that I’m going to experiment with.

I wrote the following in the Alaska gear thread about urine tanning:

"I don’t know how the Yup’ik tanned their salmon. My guess is they used urine. I don’t know how to urine tan. There are instructions on the web, but because I haven’t done it before I can’t recommend they will work. Urea forms ammonia and that creates a basic environment (12 pH) that likely breaks down fats and kills bacteria. But I don’t know how that makes it waterproof. Sounds like alum tawing, which is not water proof. Maybe the added fats make it water proof? This is also known as “oil tanning” which I don’t fully understand yet. Braintanning is basically oil tanning with the added step of smoking.

I imagine that you could urine bate (tanning term for getting shit out of the hides that will make it rot), wash repeatedly to get to a neutral pH, dry a little, rough up the membrane side, put in warm emulsified oil/water, wring out and stretch until dry, and smoke. I would maybe even consider bating in urine and salt water, kind of a bate/pickle to preserve the hide through the tanning process.

The best source for this stuff is likely Lotta Rahme’s book Fish Leather: Tanning and Sewing."

Ah. Cool. I think I saw that post before you did some edits.

The traditional method is discussed in this:

Yuungnaqpiallerput / The Way We Genuinely Live
Masterworks of Yup’ik Science and Survival

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OH DANG, that book has info on sewing skin Qayaqs (Kayaks). I’m going to have to ILL or buy that book. I have so many goddamn hides that I’m thinking of making a small kayak to practice. Kilii Fish of Seawolf has a animal skin kayak he was making, but failed. http://www.seawolfkayak.com/spt-article-fulltext#more-268

What I really don’t get yet is sewing water tight seams and what will provide an epoxy to seal the seams. Looks like the Yup’ik used rancid seal oil and moss. Don’t really have that down here and I’m not going to use hide glue…I should figure out what the Objibwe used to seal their birch bark canoes.

From Kilii’s article: > Inuit skin sewers usually sewed subcutaneously, or only partially

through the thick hide. This prevented putting any holes in the hide. I
could not figure how to efficiently sew a subcutaneous stitch with my
tools, so simply sewed the first stitch of the traditional waterproof
seams by piercing the entire hide.

I think that’s a butt or ladder stitch. I’ve done this on turnshoes I’ve made. It does make a hidden stitch that seems (no pun intended) water tight. You would need an awl that is rounded. Here’s a post to discuss water tight seams further.

Sorry I just turned this into another topic on my own post :smile:

I know an earth lodge that has a copy. I’d like to get one for the group library.

It doesn’t go into elaborate detail on all of the techniques, but there’s some great info in there.

Since we’re on the topic of kayaks, the aforementioned book also mentions bear intestines as a suitable, and perhaps preferable, alternative to seal gut parkas for waterproof paddling gear.

It also mentions potential advantages to brown bear skin for snowshoe babiche, but maybe that should go back in the other thread. Ha!